- Overview
- Detail Itinerary
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- Altitiude Sickness
- Equipments
- Departure Date
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Home › Expedition › Amadablam Expedition
Amadablam is renowned for its incredible beauty. Located to the south of Everest and Lhotse, it is characterized as vertical walls and sharp exposed ridges. The best climbing seasons for Mt Ama Dablam are in April, May (pre-monsoon) and late September, October (post- monsoon).
Ama Dablam (22, 501 feet / 6858 meters) is one of the most spectacular mountains in the world and a true alpinist’s dream. This unforgettable climb in the Khumbu region of Nepal involves a cultural trek into base camp, technical rock, snow and ice climbing and stunning panoramic summit views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. We climb Island peak to acclimatize, befoe going to our main objective Ama Dablam. We place two to three camps along the beautiful Southwest ridge where we have dramatic and exposed views of the Himalayas. We take pride in providing the finest service in the industry, from our excellent base camp services to the personal attention you will receive on your trip.
Short Itinerary
NOTE : Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control and in the guides best judgement. Day 2 Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley. Your sightseeing trip will start at 9AM in the morning after your breakfast. We will provide a private vehicle and professional tour guide. Places we visit are Pasupatinath temple, Buddhanath, Monkey temple, patan durbar square. Day 3: Kathmandu. The afternoon includes a final briefing and preparations for the expeditions. Final check the equipments and if not enough buy in thamel. Afternoon go to nepal goverment tourism department for the expedition permit. Day 4: Rest and relax day in kathmandu. Day 5: Phaking • 8,700 feet |
Detail Itinerary for Amadablam Expedition
NOTE : Although we do our best to follow the schedule listed, this itinerary is subject to change for numerous reasons beyond our control and in the guides best judgement.
Day 1- Pick up from kathmandu airport and drop to hotel Samsara
Day 2 Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley. Your sightseeing trip will start at 9AM in the morning after your breakfast. We will provide a private vehicle and professional tour guide. Places we visit are Pasupatinath temple, Buddhanath, Monkey temple, patan durbar square.
Day 3: Kathmandu. The afternoon includes a final briefing and preparations for the expeditions. Final check the equipments and if not enough buy in thamel. Afternoon go to nepal goverment tourism department for the expedition permit.
Day 4: Rest and relax day in kathmandu.
Day 5: Phaking • 8,700 feet
We fly on a twin-engine Otter to the Himalayan foothills where we will begin our trek into the Khumbu region. The views from the plane are amazing, providing dramatic views of terraced hills and the distant Himalayan giants. After landing in the village of Lukla (9,350 feet) we will meet the rest of our staff and porters and trek for about two and a half hours to Phakding. Here we will meet up with trekkers who have participated in the Jiri extension. B, L, D
Day 6: Namche Bazaar • 11,300 feet
We continue trekking along the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing this majestic river many times on exciting suspension bridges laden with prayer flags. After entering Sagamatha National Park, the trail climbs steeply with breathtaking views to Namche Bazaar the gateway to the Khumbu region. B, L, D
Day 7: Namche Bazaar • 11,300 feet
Today is a rest and acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar. Namche is a colorful village with many wonderful and interesting shops and vendors, fabulous food, and stunning views of the surrounding mountains. An early hike above town, before the clouds move in, will reward climbers with a spectacular Himalayan sunrise and views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse (the 4th highest peak in the world), and the beautiful Ama Dablam. On the way down, we can visit the Sherpa Museum that houses an exhibit on traditional Sherpa lifestyle and a fabulous photography display by a local Nepalese naturalist. One room highlights the Sherpa traditions and in another, Sherpa high altitude climbers are presented. B, L, D
Day 8: Thyangboche • 12,887 feet
The trek continues along the rushing glacial waters of the Dudh Kosi with magnificent views of the mountains. We will spend the night next to the Thyangboche monastery, the spiritual center of Khumbu region. Inside the monastery are incredibly ornate wall hangings, a 20-foot sculpture of Buddha, and the musical instruments and robes of the Llamas. If our group is lucky, we will see the Llama perform a ceremony and hear the mystical chanting and music. B, L, D
Day 9: Ama Dablam Base Camp • 15,000 feet
The uphill trek along the river allows for breathtaking photos of Ama Dablam that towers ominously above us, and the Southwest ridge comes into clear view! Just after the village of Pangbouche we descend down to the Dudh Kosi and cross a small bridge and then follow the trail as it climbs up to Ama Dablam Base Camp (15,000 feet). Our Sherpas, porters and cooks will have already established base camp and we will be greeted with warm smiles, hot tea and a delicious lunch. The rest of the afternoon can be spent relaxing in the sun watching climbers high on the mountain as they descend the upper snow face of the Dablam Glacier. B, L, D
Day 10: Today is a rest day and acclimatization day. B, L, D
Day 11: Advanced Base Camp• 17,700 feet
Today we make a carry up the large lateral moraine towards Advanced Base camp (ABC) at 17,700 feet. where views of the surrounding 5000m peaks are impressive. It is possible to see the pass, Mingbo La, from here. We return back to base camp for the evening. We will use the strategy of climb high & sleep low to maximize our ability to acclimatize. B, L, D
Day 12: Our group hikes back up to ABC to sleep for the evening. B, L, D
Day 13: Camp I • 18,900 feet
After breakfast, we hike up a ridge until it drops down along the base of Ama Dablam. Scrambling from boulder to boulder, we reach the base of the slabs that challenge us with the first technical climbing (Class 4). Reaching the tops of the slabs and on to the ridge proper, one begins to get a sense of the exposure Ama Dablam is famous for. Camp I is established on the crest of the ridge at 18,900 feet. After leaving a cache at CI, we will return back to base camp for the night. B, L, D
Day 14: Rest day. B, L, D
Day 15: Climbers ascend back to ABC for a second night. Most people find this second night to be a bit more restful! B, L, D
Day 16: Our group climbs back up across the boulders, scrambles up the slabs to the ridge and arrives at Camp I. We will spend the night at Camp I. B, L, D
Day 17: Climb high on the ridge towards Camp II before descending back to base camp. The rest of the day we will rest in the pleasures of base camp. B, L, D
Day 18: Rest Day. B, L, D
Day 19: Our group begins their summit push and ascends to Camp I.
Day 20: Camp II • 19,500 feet
The first summit team will begin their summit attempt, moving to Camp II at 19,500 feet. The climbing from Camp I to II is some of the most exciting rock climbing on the route. The entire route is fixed, and climbers will be connected to this rope via jumar and sling as they traverse 4th and 5th class rock (up to 5.7) around gendarmes and up towers. The rock is impeccable, the exposure intense and the views awe inspiring! Camp II is perched on a narrow ledge with incredible exposure and views of the upper mountain and surrounding peaks. B, L, D
Day 21 Camp III • 21,000 feet
From Camp II, we climb mixed snow, rock and ice up the massive yellow tower and then traverse left into a wild fluted corner. After climbing this 50 degree snow couloir we reach the “mushroom ridge.” We climb along this exposed snow ridge and reach Camp III at 21,000’ which is situated just to the side of the massive Dablam hanging glacier. B, L, D
Day 22: Summit day • 22,350 feet
The day begins with steep climbing right out of camp up toward the Dablam Glacier. The route traverses right, around some crevasses and then meets up with the 40–60 degree snow rib that leads to the summit (22,350 feet). At the top there are beautiful views of Mt. Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. We then descend down to Camp III for the night. B, L, D
Day 23: From Camp III we head back to base camp for our celebration dinner. B, L, D
Day 24-26: These days are extra summit attempts for bad weather, and/or health. If we summit early, we can take a side trip to Kala Pattar or Everest Base Camp. B, L, D
Day 27: From Base Camp we descend to Namche. If we are lucky, it will be market time in Namche. Regardless, there is always fabulous food to be found, including real espresso, yak steaks and chocolate cake with frosting! This market is where lowland porters bearing supplies meet the highland Sherpa and Tibetan people who have journeyed over high passes from many miles away to trade food and supplies for their home or village. B, L, D
Day 28: Our last day on the trail, we hike from Namche to Lukla, crossing eleven suspension bridges and reentering the fertile valleys of the lower Dudh Kosi. We overnight in Lukla. B, L, D
Day 29: The morning flight back to Kathmandu is scenic and smooth as we say farewell to the mountains. B, L, D
Day 30: The morning is open and provides a chance to get out early and watch the people of Kathmandu rise in prayer at Pashupatinath along the banks of the holy river Bagmati with burning ghats similar to the Ganges in India. You may wish to visit the Buddhist temple of Swayambhunath or explore the temples in the city of Patan just south of Kathmandu. Overnight in Kathmandu. B, D
Day 31-32: Depart Kathmandu and arrive home. B
Amadablam Expedition
Amadablam Expedition
Altitude Sickness
Many people are concerned about altitude sickness. This problem, often known as acute mountain sickness (AMS), is a particularly important medical consideration while trekking in Nepal and Tibet. AMS rarely occurs lower than 2800 meters (9520ft) and only minor symptoms occur below 3000 meters (9,800ft). AMS occurs when the body does not adapt well to the lack of oxygen present at higher altitudes. At 5490 meters (18,000ft), there is just half the oxygen available as there is at sea level, while there is only a third available at the summit of Mount Everest. The itineraries of the treks of Itreknepal are designed to reduce the risk of altitude sickness as much as possible, although individual susceptibility to altitude sickness seems to be genetically determined. What happens to the body during altitude illness? The body tries to adapt to having less available oxygen by increasing the rate and depth of breathing, as well as the heart rate. Fluids accumulate in between the cells in the brain, the lungs or both, creating mild to severe symptoms. Mild symptoms include headache, loss of appetite, nausea, fatigue, insomnia and dizziness. These symptoms are usually resolved by spending one or two extra nights at the same altitude. If symptoms worsen, descent to lower altitudes is warranted. If you are resting at the same altitude and your symptoms worsen, then it is also necessary to descend. More serious symptoms of AMS include increased tiredness, severe headaches, vomiting, loss of coordination, shortness of breath and coughing fits. These extremely dangerous symptoms are called high altitude cerebral edema (or HACE). They can lead to unconsciousness and death within 12 hours. Increasing shortness of breath, cough and tiredness may also be signs of high altitude pulmonary edema or HAPE. This condition can rapidly prove to be fatal if ignored. Respiratory depression (the slowing down of breathing) can be caused by various substances, and may be a problem at altitude. The following substances can do this, and should never be used by someone who has symptoms of altitude illness:
1. Alcohol
2. Sleeping pills (acetazolamide is the sleeping tablet of choice at altitude)
3. Narcotic pain medications in more than modest doses
To prevent AMS and respiratory depression, drink at least three liters of liquid a day and avoid getting cold. Altitude sickness can to a certain extent be prevented by acetazolamide (Diamox SR), 750mg per day. Some experts suggest a two-day trial of acetazolamide before the trip. Please seek the advice of your personal physician. Please note that taking Diamox SR does not mean that you can ignore advice about proper acclimatization.
To recap, serious symptoms of altitude sickness include:
1. A severe, enduring headache, which is not cured by ordinary painkillers
2. Nausea and repeated vomiting
3. Irritating dizziness or actual difficulty with balance and direction
4. Visual disturbances with flickering vision and problems judging distance
5. Pressure in the chest, rapid breathing and pulse rate,
crackles in breathing and shortness of breath
6. Swelling beneath the skin (edema), typically around the eyes
7. Swollen ankles and hands
8. Confusion
9. Convulsions
In the presence of these symptoms, medical attention must be sought immediately in conjunction with descent to the lowest possible height. We have guides trained at the High Altitude Medical Training Center. Our staff is very experienced in dealing with the effects of higher altitudes. As they are natives of Nepal, they easily acclimatize and therefore can care for their clients. They are equipped with necessary medical supplies and will assist with basic first aid treatment. We design our tours to ensure clients are ready for high altitude, and arrange alternative itineraries for those at risk. For more information, please contact your doctor or hospital.
Suggested Climbing Gear
Note: Not necessary to buy the same brands as mentioned below but make sure about the quality.
__ Alpine climbing harness. Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
__ 2 locking carabiners. Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended
__ 3 regular carabiners. Lightweight; BD Hot wire are recommended
__ Ice axe w/leash. Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snow Walker). Under 5’7” use 60cm; 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm; over 6’2” use 70cm
__ Plastic Mountaineering boots (Koflach Degree, Lowa Civetta, or Scarpa Alpha) or Leather Double Mountaineering boots (e.g. La Sportiva Olympic Mons, Boreal GI or equivalent; must be mountaineering/crampon compatible)
__ Crampons. Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended; include a simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12, Black Diamond Contact, or Charlet Moser Super 12)
__ Adjustable trekking poles
__ Belay/rappel device (Figure 8 preferred)
Upper Body
__ 2 cotton t-shirts
__ 1 polypropylene t-shirt
__ 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirts. Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
__ 2 women sports bras. Synthetic, no cotton!
__ 1 softshell. Marmot Dri-clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket (R2 pullover acceptable)
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest. Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred; R4 Jacket acceptable
__ Hardshell jacket with hood. Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers.
__ 1 expedition down parka with hood. This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and has a thick insulated hood
Hand Wear
We require two systems: one glove system for lower on the mountain and a mitten overmitt system for the cold temperatures encountered on summit day.
__ 2 pair liner gloves. Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 pair warm gloves. Fleece or wool
__ 1 pair expedition shell gloves
__ 1 pair modular expedition shell mitts. OR Pro Mitts. If they do not have wrist straps consider sewing one on so that you can either attach it to your jacket or cinch the strap to your wrist so that you do not lose your mittens in high winds.
Head Gear
__ Warm hat. Wool or synthetic that covers your ears
__ Balaclava
__ Face mask
__ Shade hat or baseball cap
__ Glacier glasses. 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (e.g. Julbo or Cebe)*
__ 1 pair extra sunglasses (also with UV protection in case your 1st pair breaks)
__ 1 ski goggles with UV protection*
*If you require prescription glacier glasses, you can get your lenses modified to your prescription..
Lower Body
__ 4 pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 3 pair lightweight trekking socks
__ 2 pair medium-heavy wool socks. Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 1 pair nylon shorts
__ 1 pair nylon pants for trekking and around camp
__ 2 pair lightweight long underwear bottoms
__ 1 pair fleece pants with side zipper or “puff-ball pants”
__ 1 pair soft shell pants (e.g. Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants. Schoeller fabrics)
__ 1 pair of hardshell pants. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
__ 1 pair gaiters. Make sure they will fit over plastic boots (OR Crocodiles or equivalent)
__ 1 pair down booties (optional)
__ 1 pair trail shoes for the hike to base camp and use at camp
__ 1 pair sandals or tennis shoes for Kathmandu and in camp
All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags.
Pack
__ 1 lightweight internal frame pack (approx 4,000 cubic inches)
__ 1 daypack is optional for the approach hike, possible use on summit day and carry-on pack. If you plan to use it for your summit pack it must be large enough for your down jacket, misc. clothes, food and water. The Lowe Alpine Neutrino or Black Diamond Speed 28 are excellent, lightweight (16 oz.) choices
__ 1 large (7,500+cu.in.) duffel bag for gear, must be durable for use on pack animals
__ Small padlock for duffel bag
__ 1 small duffel bag for luggage storage in Kathmandu
Sleeping Gear
__ 1 down sleeping bag rated to -10 F (Gore Dryloft or similar fabric helps protect down and dark colors speed drying time)
__ Sleeping pad. Full length closed cell foam (mandatory) and/or Therma-Rest for extra warmth and comfort
Miscellaneous
__ 1 first-aid kit with ibuprofen and any other doctor recommended medications
__ Lip balm. At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen. At least SPF 40
__ Headlamp. Petzl Myobelt 3 or Black Diamond Polar Star
__ 3 Water bottles. 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle)
__ Hydration bladder with drinking tube for lower mountain (optional)
__ 1 water bottle insulator
__ Plastic mug w/snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger
__ Bowl and spoon. Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best
__ Pocket knife. Small Swiss-army type
__ Water purification. Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals
__ Toiletry kit. Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag
__ 3-4 Large plastic bags, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks. For food and gear storage (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Bandana
__ Camp towel
__ Ear plugs
__ Hand wipes
__ 1 small stainless steel thermos (optional)
__ Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds)
__ Paperback books, cards, Walkman, etc.
__ Binoculars (optional for viewing the route from the lower camps)
__ Camera. 1 light weightpoint & shoot on the mountain, 1 large SLR type is optional for the trek in and base camp
__ Fanny pack or wallet for travel documents, money & passport
__ Passport and passport photos
__ Airline ticket
Climbers Qualifications: All climbers are required to have past high-altitude mountaineering experience. In addition, members should be able to ascend and descend fixed lines independently and be proficient with cramponing on steep ice/snow slopes. For an increased chance of success, members should also be in good physical condition.
Departure Date for Amadablam Expedition
View Our Price List
Per person cost: US$ 9000
Group Size: Minimum 2, maximum 14 in one departure
Per person cost: US$ 5555
Group Size: Minimum 14 in one departure
Included in cost:
· Ama Dablam permit fees
· Scheduled hotel accommodations in Kathmandu
· Roundtrip airfare from Lukla to Kathmandu and airport transfers
· All overnight accommodations while on the trek and climb
· Scheduled restaurant meals while in Kathmandu
· All meals while trekking and climbing
· Group equipment for the climb
· Climbing Sherpas
Not included in cost:
· International airfare
· Personal equipment
· Staff/guide gratuities
· Items of personal nature (phone calls, laundry, room service, extra meals, etc.)
· Trip cancellation and rescue insurance
· Alcoholic beverages
· Airport departure tax and Nepal Visa
QUALIFICATIONS: Ama Dablam is a technical climb. You should be proficient at ascending and descending fixed lines. Part of the climb is 5th class rock with a move or two of 5.7 that requires climbing rock with mountaineering boots. Climbers are required to have past rock and steep snow climbing experience on exposed terrain. To increase your chances of success, members should be in good physical condition. Please call the Mountain Madness office if you have any questions or would like to discuss your strategy for gaining the experience necessary to climb Ama Dablam.
TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE: We strongly recommend the purchase of trip cancellation and travel insurance. This comprehensive travel insurance provides coverage for: trip cancellation and interruption, travel delays, loss of baggage and travel documents, baggage delay, medical expenses and emergency assistance. An insurance application is provided with all trip confirmations.
