Our Cho Oyu expedition will fly to the ancient capital city of Tibet, Lhasa, once home to the 14th Dalai Lama who fled to India in 1959 due to the Chinese Invasion. While acclimatizing our group will tour many of the Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and palaces as we journey to Cho Oyu base camp. We will take an alternative overland route back to Kathmandu via Zhangmu.
First summitted in 1954 by a small Austrian/Tibetan expedition, Cho Oyu is technically easier than most other “8000ers,” making it a great first 8000-meter peak for climbers with previous high altitude climbing experience. We will climb Cho Oyu via the West Ridge/West Face, which has two short technical sections. Advanced Base Camp (ABC) will be established at 5800 meters (19,024 feet), Camp I at 6500 meters, Camp II at 7100 meters (23,288 feet), and Camp III at 7400 meters (24,272 feet).
Climbing to Cho Oyu’s camp 3 The Tibetan folktale of Cho Oyu (meaning Turquoise God) is that he fell in love with the Goddess Chomolungma (Everest), who later married her closer neighbor to the southeast, Makalu. Cho Oyu never married and he now faces the opposite way of Chomolungma.
The expedition will start in Kathmandu, Nepal. We will meet at our Nepal office to get our paperwork together, organize our gear, and enjoy the local customs & culture of Kathmandu before flying to Lhasa. We take a spectacular route from Lhasa to the village of Tingri, our final rugged and rural village before Cho Oyu base camp. We spend two nights at base camp before we hire yaks to transport our expedition supplies to ABC. On this two day journey we will cross rivers, and hike over rocky moraine before we arrive at ABC, “our base camp” for 4 weeks.
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Day 1: Arrival at Kathmandu Airport. There you will be met by our Airport Representative and transferred to hotel by private tourist vehicle. Overnight at hotel.
Day 2: Equipment check and preparation day in kathmandu
Day 3: Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley. Your sightseeing trip will start at 9AM in the morning after your breakfast. We will provide a private vehicle and professional tour guide. Places we visit are Pasupatinath temple, Buddhanath, Monkey temple, Bhaktpur durbar square and Kathmandu durbar square. The afternoon includes a final briefing and preparations for the trek.
Day 4: Kathmandu – We finalize last minute paperwork with the Nepal and Tibet governments. You will have a casual day shopping for souvenirs in the streets of Kathmandu, with abundant photo opportunities along the way. Visit the palaces, Durbar Square, Hindu temples, shrines, and Buddhist stupas or just relax at the hotel.
Day 5: Lhasa – We fly to Lhasa and the fascinating world of Tibet. We transfer to our hotel downtown. Elevation at Lhasa is over 12,000 feet, so we use this opportunity to begin acclimatizing.
Day 6 – Day 7: Sightseeing in Lhasa – We have an opportunity to visit the popular and awe inspiring Potala Palace, Lhasa’s most renowned landmark. Since its construction in 1694, the Potala has been the home of each of the successive Dalai Lamas until 1959 and the final resting place of many of them. In the afternoon we will visit the Jokhang Temple, the most revered religious structure in Tibet. We may visit Norbulingka Palace, which was the summer home of the Dalai Lamas, and Drepung monastery, once the world’s largest.
Day 8 : Drive to Shigatse and visit the Tashilhunpo Monastery – We travel by 4x4 Landcrusiers across the Tibetan plateau. We arrive in Shigatse, the second largest city of Tibet, in the afternoon. There, we tour Tashilhunpo Monastery. Built in 1447, this imposing complex is the residence of the Panchen Lama, the second most important religious figure in Tibet.
Day 9: Drive to New Tingri – Today will be a long travel day. Lunch stop will be in the town of Lhatse at 4000 meters. Our afternoon drive will take us over two passes above 5000 meters before arriving at the village of New Tingri.
Day 10 - 11: Cho Oyu Base Camp – We drive through the scenic countryside to base camp. The next morning we will take an acclimatization hike to 18,000 feet. After lunch we spend some time sorting gear before we head to Advance Base Camp (ABC) the next day.
Day 12 - 13: Trek to Advance Base Camp – After breakfast we will depart on our two-day journey to Cho Oyu ABC. We will forge through the ice cold Ra Chhu River and set up intermediate camp. The following morning we trek to ABC and camp next to the Nangpa La. Camp will be at 5800 meters.
Day 14–Day 40: The Climb of Cho Oyu – Our strategy is to place two more camps at 6500 meters, and 7100 meters while we acclimatize for our summit attempt. This includes spending a night at 7100 meters before descending back to ABC. We rest at ABC for approximately 4 days depending on weather and the strength of the team. On our summit push we climb to Camp I, then Camp II and then establish Camp III at 7400 meters. On summit day we leave at 2 a.m. Depending on the strength of the team we should summit between 9-11 a.m. We will descend to our high camp or Camp II for the night. The next day we will descend to ABC.
Day 41: Descend to Cho Oyu Base Camp – Our yaks will arrive in the morning. We trek down to base camp and arrive late in the day.
Day 42 : Drive to Zhangmu – In the morning we will have a quick clean-up of the base camp area before the trucks pick us up there. We then make the adventurous drive to Zhangmu on the border of Tibet and Nepal.
Day 43: Drive to Kathmandu – After checking through with the Chinese border patrol and customs, we drive through the lush country of Nepal. The countryside is filled with warm and friendly people, beautiful waterfalls and terraced hillsides.
Day 44: Relaxing Day in Kathmandu.
Day 45: Final departure to Airport.
Many people are concerned about altitude sickness. This problem, often known as acute mountain sickness (AMS), is a particularly important medical consideration while trekking in Nepal and Tibet. AMS rarely occurs lower than 2800 meters (9520ft) and only minor symptoms occur below 3000 meters (9,800ft). AMS occurs when the body does not adapt well to the lack of oxygen present at higher altitudes. At 5490 meters (18,000ft), there is just half the oxygen available as there is at sea level, while there is only a third available at the summit of Mount Everest. The itineraries of the treks of Itreknepal are designed to reduce the risk of altitude sickness as much as possible, although individual susceptibility to altitude sickness seems to be genetically determined. What happens to the body during altitude illness? The body tries to adapt to having less available oxygen by increasing the rate and depth of breathing, as well as the heart rate. Fluids accumulate in between the cells in the brain, the lungs or both, creating mild to severe symptoms. Mild symptoms include headache, loss of appetite, nausea, fatigue, insomnia and dizziness. These symptoms are usually resolved by spending one or two extra nights at the same altitude. If symptoms worsen, descent to lower altitudes is warranted. If you are resting at the same altitude and your symptoms worsen, then it is also necessary to descend. More serious symptoms of AMS include increased tiredness, severe headaches, vomiting, loss of coordination, shortness of breath and coughing fits. These extremely dangerous symptoms are called high altitude cerebral edema (or HACE). They can lead to unconsciousness and death within 12 hours. Increasing shortness of breath, cough and tiredness may also be signs of high altitude pulmonary edema or HAPE. This condition can rapidly prove to be fatal if ignored. Respiratory depression (the slowing down of breathing) can be caused by various substances, and may be a problem at altitude. The following substances can do this, and should never be used by someone who has symptoms of altitude illness:
1. Alcohol
2. Sleeping pills (acetazolamide is the sleeping tablet of choice at altitude)
3. Narcotic pain medications in more than modest doses
To prevent AMS and respiratory depression, drink at least three liters of liquid a day and avoid getting cold. Altitude sickness can to a certain extent be prevented by acetazolamide (Diamox SR), 750mg per day. Some experts suggest a two-day trial of acetazolamide before the trip. Please seek the advice of your personal physician. Please note that taking Diamox SR does not mean that you can ignore advice about proper acclimatization.
To recap, serious symptoms of altitude sickness include:
1. A severe, enduring headache, which is not cured by ordinary painkillers
2. Nausea and repeated vomiting
3. Irritating dizziness or actual difficulty with balance and direction
4. Visual disturbances with flickering vision and problems judging distance
5. Pressure in the chest, rapid breathing and pulse rate,
crackles in breathing and shortness of breath
6. Swelling beneath the skin (edema), typically around the eyes
7. Swollen ankles and hands
8. Confusion
9. Convulsions
In the presence of these symptoms, medical attention must be sought immediately in conjunction with descent to the lowest possible height. We have guides trained at the High Altitude Medical Training Center. Our staff is very experienced in dealing with the effects of higher altitudes. As they are natives of Nepal, they easily acclimatize and therefore can care for their clients. They are equipped with necessary medical supplies and will assist with basic first aid treatment. We design our tours to ensure clients are ready for high altitude, and arrange alternative itineraries for those at risk. For more information, please contact your doctor or hospital.
Suggested Climbing Gear
Note: Not necessary to buy the same brands as mentioned below but make sure about the quality.
__ Ice axe w/leash. Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snow Walker). Under 5’7” use 60cm; 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm; over 6’2” use 70cm
__ Plastic Mountaineering boots (Koflach Degree, Lowa Civetta, or Scarpa Alpha) or Leather Double Mountaineering boots (e.g. La Sportiva Olympic Mons, Boreal GI or equivalent; must be mountaineering/crampon compatible)
__ Alpine climbing harness. Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
__ 2 locking carabiners. Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended
__ 3 regular carabiners. Lightweight; BD Hot wire are recommended
__ Crampons. Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended; include a simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12, Black Diamond Contact, or Charlet Moser Super 12)
__ Adjustable trekking poles
__ Belay/rappel device (Figure 8 preferred)
Upper Body
__ 2 cotton t-shirts
__ 1 polypropylene t-shirt
__ 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirts. Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
__ 2 women sports bras. Synthetic, no cotton!
__ 1 softshell. Marmot Dri-clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket (R2 pullover acceptable)
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest. Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred; R4 Jacket acceptable
__ Hardshell jacket with hood. Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers.
__ 1 expedition down parka with hood. This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and has a thick insulated hood
Hand Wear
We require two systems: one glove system for lower on the mountain and a mitten overmitt system for the cold temperatures encountered on summit day.
__ 2 pair liner gloves. Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 pair warm gloves. Fleece or wool
__ 1 pair expedition shell gloves
__ 1 pair modular expedition shell mitts. OR Pro Mitts. If they do not have wrist straps consider sewing one on so that you can either attach it to your jacket or cinch the strap to your wrist so that you do not lose your mittens in high winds.
Head Gear
__ Warm hat. Wool or synthetic that covers your ears
__ Balaclava
__ Face mask
__ Shade hat or baseball cap
__ Glacier glasses. 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (e.g. Julbo or Cebe)*
__ 1 pair extra sunglasses (also with UV protection in case your 1st pair breaks)
__ 1 ski goggles with UV protection*
*If you require prescription glacier glasses, you can get your lenses modified to your prescription..
Lower Body
__ 4 pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 3 pair lightweight trekking socks
__ 2 pair medium-heavy wool socks. Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 1 pair nylon shorts
__ 1 pair nylon pants for trekking and around camp
__ 2 pair lightweight long underwear bottoms
__ 1 pair fleece pants with side zipper or “puff-ball pants”
__ 1 pair soft shell pants (e.g. Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants. Schoeller fabrics)
__ 1 pair of hardshell pants. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
__ 1 pair gaiters. Make sure they will fit over plastic boots (OR Crocodiles or equivalent)
__ 1 pair down booties (optional)
__ 1 pair trail shoes for the hike to base camp and use at camp
__ 1 pair sandals or tennis shoes for Kathmandu and in camp
All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags.
Pack
__ 1 lightweight internal frame pack (approx 4,000 cubic inches)
__ 1 daypack is optional for the approach hike, possible use on summit day and carry-on pack. If you plan to use it for your summit pack it must be large enough for your down jacket, misc. clothes, food and water. The Lowe Alpine Neutrino or Black Diamond Speed 28 are excellent, lightweight (16 oz.) choices
__ 1 large (7,500+cu.in.) duffel bag for gear, must be durable for use on pack animals
__ Small padlock for duffel bag
__ 1 small duffel bag for luggage storage in Kathmandu
Sleeping Gear
__ 1 down sleeping bag rated to -10 F (Gore Dryloft or similar fabric helps protect down and dark colors speed drying time)
__ Sleeping pad. Full length closed cell foam (mandatory) and/or Therma-Rest for extra warmth and comfort
Miscellaneous
__ 1 first-aid kit with ibuprofen and any other doctor recommended medications
__ Lip balm. At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen. At least SPF 40
__ Headlamp. Petzl Myobelt 3 or Black Diamond Polar Star
__ 3 Water bottles. 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle)
__ Hydration bladder with drinking tube for lower mountain (optional)
__ 1 water bottle insulator
__ Plastic mug w/snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger
__ Bowl and spoon. Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best
__ Pocket knife. Small Swiss-army type
__ Water purification. Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals
__ Toiletry kit. Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag
__ 3-4 Large plastic bags, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks. For food and gear storage (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Bandana
__ Camp towel
__ Ear plugs
__ Hand wipes
__ 1 small stainless steel thermos (optional)
__ Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds)
__ Paperback books, cards, Walkman, etc.
__ Binoculars (optional for viewing the route from the lower camps)
__ Camera. 1 light weightpoint & shoot on the mountain, 1 large SLR type is optional for the trek in and base camp
__ Fanny pack or wallet for travel documents, money & passport
__ Passport and passport photos
__ Airline ticket
Climbers Qualifications: All climbers are required to have past high-altitude mountaineering experience. In addition, members should be able to ascend and descend fixed lines independently and be proficient with cramponing on steep ice/snow slopes. For an increased chance of success, members should also be in good physical condition.
Per person cost: US$ 1175
Group Size: Minimum 2, maximum 14 in one departure
Per person cost: US$ 1175
Group Size: Minimum 2, maximum 14 in one departure