Mt. Manaslu was first climbed in 1956 by a Japanese expedition. Its name comes from the Sanskrit word Manasa, meaning ’intellect’ or "soul". This is the same word that is the root of the name of the holy lake Manasarover near Mt Kailas in Tibet.
The record on Manaslu in 2002 was 175 summiters, 120 expeditions and 49 deaths. HW Tilman and Jimmy Roberts photographed Manaslu during a trek in 1950, but the first real survey of the peak was made by a Japanese expedition in 1952. A Japanese team made the first serious attempt on the peak from the Buri Gandaki valley in 1953 when another team followed in 1954, the villagers of Samagaon told them that the first team had been responsible for an avalanche which destroyed a monastery, and refused to let the 1954 expedition climb. The expedition set off to climb Ganesh Himal instead.
Despite a large donation for the rebuilding of the monastery, subsequent Japanese expeditions, including the one that made the first ascent in 1956, took place in an atmosphere of animosity and mistrust. The second successful Japanese expedition was in 1971 there was South Korean attempt in 1971, and in April 1972 an avalanche which resulted in the death of five climbers and 10 Sherpas ended the second South Korean expedition.
Reinhold Messner made the fourth ascent of Manaslu as a member of a Tyroleam expedition that climbed the peak from the Marsyangdi valley in 1972.
Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264 ft) |
Day 1 Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel
Day 2 Preparation for Expedition
Day 3 Expedition briefing in Ministry of Tourism
Day 4 Drive Arughat via Dhading
Day 5 Arughat - Sotikhola 6 hours
Day 6 Sotikhola - Machhakhola 6/7 hours
Day 7 Machhakhola - Jagat 6/7hour walk
Day 8 Jagat - Ukawa
Day 9 Ukawa - Ngyak 5/6 hours
Day 10 Nyak - Namrung 5/6 hour
Day 11 Namrung - Syalla village
Day 12 Syalla - Sama village
Day 13 Sama Village
Day 50 Sama Village - Manaslu Base Camp
Day 51 Climbing Period for Manaslu 8163m
Day 52 Syalla - Sama village
Day 53 Base camp - Sama village
Day 54 Sama - Namrung
Day 55 Trek Namrung to Philim village
Day 56 Filim to Machakhola
Day 57 Machakhola - Soti
Day 57 Soti - Arughat
Day 57 Arughat drive to Kathmandu
Day 57 Kathmandu leisure / rest / shopping
Day 57 Final departure to the International Airport
Many people are concerned about altitude sickness. This problem, often known as acute mountain sickness (AMS), is a particularly important medical consideration while trekking in Nepal and Tibet. AMS rarely occurs lower than 2800 meters (9520ft) and only minor symptoms occur below 3000 meters (9,800ft). AMS occurs when the body does not adapt well to the lack of oxygen present at higher altitudes. At 5490 meters (18,000ft), there is just half the oxygen available as there is at sea level, while there is only a third available at the summit of Mount Everest. The itineraries of the treks of Itreknepal are designed to reduce the risk of altitude sickness as much as possible, although individual susceptibility to altitude sickness seems to be genetically determined. What happens to the body during altitude illness? The body tries to adapt to having less available oxygen by increasing the rate and depth of breathing, as well as the heart rate. Fluids accumulate in between the cells in the brain, the lungs or both, creating mild to severe symptoms. Mild symptoms include headache, loss of appetite, nausea, fatigue, insomnia and dizziness. These symptoms are usually resolved by spending one or two extra nights at the same altitude. If symptoms worsen, descent to lower altitudes is warranted. If you are resting at the same altitude and your symptoms worsen, then it is also necessary to descend. More serious symptoms of AMS include increased tiredness, severe headaches, vomiting, loss of coordination, shortness of breath and coughing fits. These extremely dangerous symptoms are called high altitude cerebral edema (or HACE). They can lead to unconsciousness and death within 12 hours. Increasing shortness of breath, cough and tiredness may also be signs of high altitude pulmonary edema or HAPE. This condition can rapidly prove to be fatal if ignored. Respiratory depression (the slowing down of breathing) can be caused by various substances, and may be a problem at altitude. The following substances can do this, and should never be used by someone who has symptoms of altitude illness:
1. Alcohol
2. Sleeping pills (acetazolamide is the sleeping tablet of choice at altitude)
3. Narcotic pain medications in more than modest doses
To prevent AMS and respiratory depression, drink at least three liters of liquid a day and avoid getting cold. Altitude sickness can to a certain extent be prevented by acetazolamide (Diamox SR), 750mg per day. Some experts suggest a two-day trial of acetazolamide before the trip. Please seek the advice of your personal physician. Please note that taking Diamox SR does not mean that you can ignore advice about proper acclimatization.
To recap, serious symptoms of altitude sickness include:
1. A severe, enduring headache, which is not cured by ordinary painkillers
2. Nausea and repeated vomiting
3. Irritating dizziness or actual difficulty with balance and direction
4. Visual disturbances with flickering vision and problems judging distance
5. Pressure in the chest, rapid breathing and pulse rate,
crackles in breathing and shortness of breath
6. Swelling beneath the skin (edema), typically around the eyes
7. Swollen ankles and hands
8. Confusion
9. Convulsions
In the presence of these symptoms, medical attention must be sought immediately in conjunction with descent to the lowest possible height. We have guides trained at the High Altitude Medical Training Center. Our staff is very experienced in dealing with the effects of higher altitudes. As they are natives of Nepal, they easily acclimatize and therefore can care for their clients. They are equipped with necessary medical supplies and will assist with basic first aid treatment. We design our tours to ensure clients are ready for high altitude, and arrange alternative itineraries for those at risk. For more information, please contact your doctor or hospital.
Suggested Climbing Gear
Note: Not necessary to buy the same brands as mentioned below but make sure about the quality.
__ Ice axe w/leash. Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snow Walker). Under 5’7” use 60cm; 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm; over 6’2” use 70cm
__ Plastic Mountaineering boots (Koflach Degree, Lowa Civetta, or Scarpa Alpha) or Leather Double Mountaineering boots (e.g. La Sportiva Olympic Mons, Boreal GI or equivalent; must be mountaineering/crampon compatible)
__ Alpine climbing harness. Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing
__ 2 locking carabiners. Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type recommended
__ 3 regular carabiners. Lightweight; BD Hot wire are recommended
__ Crampons. Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended; include a simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12, Black Diamond Contact, or Charlet Moser Super 12)
__ Adjustable trekking poles
__ Belay/rappel device (Figure 8 preferred)
Upper Body
__ 2 cotton t-shirts
__ 1 polypropylene t-shirt
__ 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirts. Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
__ 2 women sports bras. Synthetic, no cotton!
__ 1 softshell. Marmot Dri-clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket (R2 pullover acceptable)
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest. Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred; R4 Jacket acceptable
__ Hardshell jacket with hood. Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers.
__ 1 expedition down parka with hood. This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and has a thick insulated hood
Hand Wear
We require two systems: one glove system for lower on the mountain and a mitten overmitt system for the cold temperatures encountered on summit day.
__ 2 pair liner gloves. Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 pair warm gloves. Fleece or wool
__ 1 pair expedition shell gloves
__ 1 pair modular expedition shell mitts. OR Pro Mitts. If they do not have wrist straps consider sewing one on so that you can either attach it to your jacket or cinch the strap to your wrist so that you do not lose your mittens in high winds.
Head Gear
__ Warm hat. Wool or synthetic that covers your ears
__ Balaclava
__ Face mask
__ Shade hat or baseball cap
__ Glacier glasses. 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (e.g. Julbo or Cebe)*
__ 1 pair extra sunglasses (also with UV protection in case your 1st pair breaks)
__ 1 ski goggles with UV protection*
*If you require prescription glacier glasses, you can get your lenses modified to your prescription..
Lower Body
__ 4 pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 3 pair lightweight trekking socks
__ 2 pair medium-heavy wool socks. Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 1 pair nylon shorts
__ 1 pair nylon pants for trekking and around camp
__ 2 pair lightweight long underwear bottoms
__ 1 pair fleece pants with side zipper or “puff-ball pants”
__ 1 pair soft shell pants (e.g. Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants. Schoeller fabrics)
__ 1 pair of hardshell pants. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best
__ 1 pair gaiters. Make sure they will fit over plastic boots (OR Crocodiles or equivalent)
__ 1 pair down booties (optional)
__ 1 pair trail shoes for the hike to base camp and use at camp
__ 1 pair sandals or tennis shoes for Kathmandu and in camp
All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags.
Pack
__ 1 lightweight internal frame pack (approx 4,000 cubic inches)
__ 1 daypack is optional for the approach hike, possible use on summit day and carry-on pack. If you plan to use it for your summit pack it must be large enough for your down jacket, misc. clothes, food and water. The Lowe Alpine Neutrino or Black Diamond Speed 28 are excellent, lightweight (16 oz.) choices
__ 1 large (7,500+cu.in.) duffel bag for gear, must be durable for use on pack animals
__ Small padlock for duffel bag
__ 1 small duffel bag for luggage storage in Kathmandu
Sleeping Gear
__ 1 down sleeping bag rated to -10 F (Gore Dryloft or similar fabric helps protect down and dark colors speed drying time)
__ Sleeping pad. Full length closed cell foam (mandatory) and/or Therma-Rest for extra warmth and comfort
Miscellaneous
__ 1 first-aid kit with ibuprofen and any other doctor recommended medications
__ Lip balm. At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen. At least SPF 40
__ Headlamp. Petzl Myobelt 3 or Black Diamond Polar Star
__ 3 Water bottles. 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle)
__ Hydration bladder with drinking tube for lower mountain (optional)
__ 1 water bottle insulator
__ Plastic mug w/snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger
__ Bowl and spoon. Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best
__ Pocket knife. Small Swiss-army type
__ Water purification. Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals
__ Toiletry kit. Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag
__ 3-4 Large plastic bags, for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks. For food and gear storage (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Bandana
__ Camp towel
__ Ear plugs
__ Hand wipes
__ 1 small stainless steel thermos (optional)
__ Favorite snack foods (no more than 2 pounds)
__ Paperback books, cards, Walkman, etc.
__ Binoculars (optional for viewing the route from the lower camps)
__ Camera. 1 light weightpoint & shoot on the mountain, 1 large SLR type is optional for the trek in and base camp
__ Fanny pack or wallet for travel documents, money & passport
__ Passport and passport photos
__ Airline ticket
Climbers Qualifications: All climbers are required to have past high-altitude mountaineering experience. In addition, members should be able to ascend and descend fixed lines independently and be proficient with cramponing on steep ice/snow slopes. For an increased chance of success, members should also be in good physical condition.
Per person cost: US$
Group Size: Minimum 2, maximum 14 in one departure
Per person cost: US$
Group Size: Minimum 2, maximum 14 in one departure