Pumori is one of the premier 7,000M peaks in Nepal. An attempt on Pumori requires excellent physical endurance and commitment. It is a serious undertaking designed only for experienced climbers. Situated in the Everest region the mountain offers sections of wild exposure, magnificent views and technical difficulty worthy of any Himalayan alpinist.
To the Northwest of lies the fascinating country of the legendry Sherpas. In this land of mountains, Pumori stands aloof and proud as if aware of its intense effect on the valley below. From the smaller summit belonging to Kalapattar to the sparking slopes of Pumori there appears to be a path that leads to the very sky. Pumori, this incredible pyramid of snow and rocks, is indeed the pride of the Solo Khumbu. Pumori is generally considered to be technically challenging and requires climbers to be experienced as well as in faultless physical condition. For one such climber this mountain could become the most rewarding challenger in the Himalaya. Our trek kicks off at Lukla. For the actual climb we will use the classical route which was first opened by a German -Swiss team. We climb the enormous south-east slope till the junction with the north-east ridge. This route requires the least amount of technically: but is exposed to objective dangers: an avalanche prone section and a section exposed to seracfall.
Camp 1: After a 3 hrs walk you will reach camp 1 or advance base camp 5700m. After that you will have to walk the distance of 500m with the Elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Mount Pumori has many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and expose to wind narrow ridges, some ice walls, and one tunnel climb. Some times you may need fixed ropes also. Camp 2: It starts at 6200m. It is located on a narrow ridge; so there is no fear of avalanches. The next 400m, Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m, Is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m. Now camp 3: It is too windy. At the height of 6850m, from where you can see Tibetan plateau; and you need rope here because of many crevasses and ice walls way to summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. Between these 2 sides the Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit. After this walk, the Summit is easy to reach on it’s vertex Pumori 7145m. Normal route: This is the easier route to climb this peak and most of the expedition coteries climbed this peak so by applying this route. As you know Pumori is not easy as like the other mountains, there are difficult technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you that, you should take climbing Sherpa; and who will guide you nicely to reach you on the top of Pumori. You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m, around the phase of Mount Pumori . You should set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. You should set camp 3 at the altitude of 6,480m, around the corner after the ridge. You can ascend summit from the camp 3 to the top of Pumori. Most of the climbers use this route every year for the expedition to Mt. Pumori to limb. South - West ridge: Some very few climbers tried this route, but it is very difficult route. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly by 75 Degree. As this route has lot of technical difficulties; so we suggest you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori and your group will comfortably reach on its Top. For the more information please check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Day 2 Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley. Your sightseeing trip will start at 9AM in the morning after your breakfast. We will provide a private vehicle and professional tour guide. Places we visit are Pasupatinath temple, Buddhanath, Monkey temple, patan durbar square. Day 3: Kathmandu. The afternoon includes a final briefing and preparations for the expeditions. Final check the equipments and if not enough buy in thamel. Afternoon go to nepal goverment tourism department for the expedition permit. Day 4: Rest and relax day in kathmandu. Day 5: After final administration requirements, we fly to the landing strip in Lukla. Weather permitting, this flight offers outstanding views of the eastern Himalayas. In Lukla, we meet and join our Sherpa staff, load the yaks and begin the ascent to base camp. Our first day is an easy walk to lush environs of Monjo, located on the Dudh Kosi River. No time is wasted on the learning aspects of this expedition. Evenings throughout the trek will consist of learning assessing rope skills needed for a Himalayan climb. Day 6: We follow the Dudh Kosi, ascending 700 meters through Himalayan pine and Deodar cedar forests, to the celebrated village of Namche Bazaar (3445 meters). The village of Namche is an historic trading post where Nepalese and Tibetan traders exchange salt, dried meat, gold and textiles. Besides being a superb place to shop for traditional crafts, Namche remains the central trading post in the Khumbu, attracting Himalayan and lowland merchants. Our group spends two days in Namche affording us the opportunity to acclimate, visit local markets and spend time with friends in town. Our camp is perched high above the city and we make our way to nearby high points to capture our first glimpses of Ama Dablam, Everest and neighbouring peaks. Day 7: Today is acclimatization day. Take a hike up to the Syangboche. In the afternoon take in the sights in Namche Bazaar including the Sherpa museum and local marketplace. Day 8: Trek to the village of Tengboche (3866 meters), the cultural and religious center of the Khumbu. At the monastery we attend Buddhist ceremonies and rituals performed by local monks. Vistas from Tengboche are spectacular. The jagged peaks of Thamserku and Kangtega stand to our south, as Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam are visible to the north. The Monastery at Tengboche is one of the most well known in the world as the Rinpoche is revered throughout the Buddhist community and has authored a number of books and essays. In the past our groups have had an audience with the Rinpoche and received his blessing. This is often a moving and intense experience. Views from this locale (one of the finest on earth), include Kwangde 6186 meters, Tawachee 6467 meters, Nuptse 7878 meters, Lhotse 8500 meters, Everest 8852 meters, Ama Dablam 6857 meters, Kantega 6778 meters, Thamserku 6607 meters. After visiting Tengboche we move to spend the night in Pangboche. Day 9: This morning we make visit Lama Geshi for our private Puja ceremony to bless the expedition before making our way up to Dingboche for the night. Day 12: Trek to Pumori base camp and settle in the comforts of your base camp established by our sherpa crew who has gone ahead of us. Day 12: Rest, adjust to the altitude and start preparing for instructional sessions and organizing equipment. Day 13: to 31:- Working on the mountain climbing and training to be ready for a summit bid during this time. Extra days have been included for inclement weather. Day 32: Rest day in BC and pack up to depart. Day 33: Move to Pangboche Day 34 : Travel from Pangboche to Namche Day 35: Namche to Lukla Day 36: Fly Lukla to KTM Day 37: Depart Kathmandu Note: We serve in local teahouses for lodging and fooding along the trek in to base camp. |
Day 1- Pick up from kathmandu airport and drop to hotel Samsara
Day 2 Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley. Your sightseeing trip will start at 9AM in the morning after your breakfast. We will provide a private vehicle and professional tour guide. Places we visit are Pasupatinath temple, Buddhanath, Monkey temple, patan durbar square.
Day 3: Kathmandu. The afternoon includes a final briefing and preparations for the expeditions. Final check the equipments and if not enough buy in thamel. Afternoon go to nepal goverment tourism department for the expedition permit.
Day 4: Rest and relax day in kathmandu.
Day 5: After final administration requirements, we fly to the landing strip in Lukla. Weather permitting, this flight offers outstanding views of the eastern Himalayas. In Lukla, we meet and join our Sherpa staff, load the yaks and begin the ascent to base camp. Our first day is an easy walk to lush environs of Monjo, located on the Dudh Kosi River. No time is wasted on the learning aspects of this expedition. Evenings throughout the trek will consist of learning assessing rope skills needed for a Himalayan climb.
Day 6: We follow the Dudh Kosi, ascending 700 meters through Himalayan pine and Deodar cedar forests, to the celebrated village of Namche Bazaar (3445 meters). The village of Namche is an historic trading post where Nepalese and Tibetan traders exchange salt, dried meat, gold and textiles. Besides being a superb place to shop for traditional crafts, Namche remains the central trading post in the Khumbu, attracting Himalayan and lowland merchants. Our group spends two days in Namche affording us the opportunity to acclimate, visit local markets and spend time with friends in town. Our camp is perched high above the city and we make our way to nearby high points to capture our first glimpses of Ama Dablam, Everest and neighbouring peaks.
Day 7: Today is acclimatization day. Take a hike up to the Syangboche. In the afternoon take in the sights in Namche Bazaar including the Sherpa museum and local marketplace.
Day 8: Trek to the village of Tengboche (3866 meters), the cultural and religious center of the Khumbu. At the monastery we attend Buddhist ceremonies and rituals performed by local monks. Vistas from Tengboche are spectacular. The jagged peaks of Thamserku and Kangtega stand to our south, as Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam are visible to the north. The Monastery at Tengboche is one of the most well known in the world as the Rinpoche is revered throughout the Buddhist community and has authored a number of books and essays. In the past our groups have had an audience with the Rinpoche and received his blessing. This is often a moving and intense experience. Views from this locale (one of the finest on earth), include Kwangde 6186 meters, Tawachee 6467 meters, Nuptse 7878 meters, Lhotse 8500 meters, Everest 8852 meters, Ama Dablam 6857 meters, Kantega 6778 meters, Thamserku 6607 meters. After visiting Tengboche we move to spend the night in Pangboche.
Day 9: This morning we make visit Lama Geshi for our private Puja ceremony to bless the expedition before making our way up to Dingboche for the night.
Day 10: Trek to Dugla, overnight in the lodge along the raging river coming out of the Khumbu Glacier.
Day 12: Trek to Pumori base camp and settle in the comforts of your base camp established by our sherpa crew who has gone ahead of us.
Day 12: Rest, adjust to the altitude and start preparing for instructional sessions and organizing equipment.
Day 13: to 31:- Working on the mountain climbing and training to be ready for a summit bid during this time. Extra days have been included for inclement weather.
Day 32: Rest day in BC and pack up to depart.
Day 33: Move to Pangboche
Day 34 : Travel from Pangboche to Namche
Day 35: Namche to Lukla
Day 36: Fly Lukla to KTM
Day 37: Depart Kathmandu
Note: We serve in local teahouses for lodging and fooding along the trek in to base camp.
Many people are concerned about altitude sickness. This problem, often known as acute mountain sickness (AMS), is a particularly important medical consideration while trekking in Nepal and Tibet. AMS rarely occurs lower than 2800 meters (9520ft) and only minor symptoms occur below 3000 meters (9,800ft). AMS occurs when the body does not adapt well to the lack of oxygen present at higher altitudes. At 5490 meters (18,000ft), there is just half the oxygen available as there is at sea level, while there is only a third available at the summit of Mount Everest. The itineraries of the treks of Itreknepal are designed to reduce the risk of altitude sickness as much as possible, although individual susceptibility to altitude sickness seems to be genetically determined. What happens to the body during altitude illness? The body tries to adapt to having less available oxygen by increasing the rate and depth of breathing, as well as the heart rate. Fluids accumulate in between the cells in the brain, the lungs or both, creating mild to severe symptoms. Mild symptoms include headache, loss of appetite, nausea, fatigue, insomnia and dizziness. These symptoms are usually resolved by spending one or two extra nights at the same altitude. If symptoms worsen, descent to lower altitudes is warranted. If you are resting at the same altitude and your symptoms worsen, then it is also necessary to descend. More serious symptoms of AMS include increased tiredness, severe headaches, vomiting, loss of coordination, shortness of breath and coughing fits. These extremely dangerous symptoms are called high altitude cerebral edema (or HACE). They can lead to unconsciousness and death within 12 hours. Increasing shortness of breath, cough and tiredness may also be signs of high altitude pulmonary edema or HAPE. This condition can rapidly prove to be fatal if ignored. Respiratory depression (the slowing down of breathing) can be caused by various substances, and may be a problem at altitude. The following substances can do this, and should never be used by someone who has symptoms of altitude illness:
1. Alcohol
2. Sleeping pills (acetazolamide is the sleeping tablet of choice at altitude)
3. Narcotic pain medications in more than modest doses
To prevent AMS and respiratory depression, drink at least three liters of liquid a day and avoid getting cold. Altitude sickness can to a certain extent be prevented by acetazolamide (Diamox SR), 750mg per day. Some experts suggest a two-day trial of acetazolamide before the trip. Please seek the advice of your personal physician. Please note that taking Diamox SR does not mean that you can ignore advice about proper acclimatization.
To recap, serious symptoms of altitude sickness include:
1. A severe, enduring headache, which is not cured by ordinary painkillers
2. Nausea and repeated vomiting
3. Irritating dizziness or actual difficulty with balance and direction
4. Visual disturbances with flickering vision and problems judging distance
5. Pressure in the chest, rapid breathing and pulse rate,
crackles in breathing and shortness of breath
6. Swelling beneath the skin (edema), typically around the eyes
7. Swollen ankles and hands
8. Confusion
9. Convulsions
In the presence of these symptoms, medical attention must be sought immediately in conjunction with descent to the lowest possible height. We have guides trained at the High Altitude Medical Training Center. Our staff is very experienced in dealing with the effects of higher altitudes. As they are natives of Nepal, they easily acclimatize and therefore can care for their clients. They are equipped with necessary medical supplies and will assist with basic first aid treatment. We design our tours to ensure clients are ready for high altitude, and arrange alternative itineraries for those at risk. For more information, please contact your doctor or hospital.
Personal Equipment List
Backpack
Day Pack (if using porter support)
Trekking Boots/ shoes
Socks x 3
Sleeping Bag (4 season)
Down Jacket (can be rented in KTM / Pokhara or Namche Bazaar)
Shorts x 2
Fleece Pant / Jacket
Flashlight (extra batteries)
Shirt/T-Shirt x 1
Thermal Underwear Top 2 / Bottoms 2
Book
Trekking polls (optional)
Sun Hat / Visor
Gloves
Sun Screen
Sunglasses (UV protected. Imperative to have quality eye wear)
Waterproof Jacket
Watch
Wool- fleece / Hat with ear protection
Water Treatment
Permit / Money
Camera / film
Small First Aid
*If you have something you are particularly prone to, ear infections or sinus problems, bring what you need with you.
If you have something you are particularly prone to, ear infections, foot rot, or sinus problems, bring what you need with you. You will definitely want to be carrying some for common illnesses like diarrhea, staff infection and upset stomachs. You will need a complete set of inoculations for Asia, ask your doctor for advise.
Food: Please bring any of your own food: power bars, granola bars, dried fruit, chocolate, always nice to have.
Per person cost: US$ 1175
Group Size: Minimum 2, maximum 14 in one departure
Per person cost: US$ 1175
Group Size: Minimum 2, maximum 14 in one departure